Ford Escape Radio

 Awesome weekend. Finally had a weekend away from the shop. Had one of my grandsons (Desmond) spend Sat/Sat night/Sun with us, got some repairs and painting underway on the house, worked on Debbie's car, got the AC in my truck topped off, and finished the radio installation in my truck. Debbie gave me a JVC unit for my little Ford Escape for Christmas, it has taken me this long to get enough time to get it finished...but worth the effort! Love this thing, especially the Pandora Radio feature. 

I used one of those universal connector kits to mate the radio to the OEM wiring harness, and spliced/soldered/heat shrank that pile of wiring. My 2002 Ford OEM radio opening in the dash wasn't quite 'Double DIN' spec, so I had to open the dash up below the front trim panel, fabricate a set of "L" brackets for the radio, graft on the slide bracket from the OEM radio, and it was mechanically ready to fit. Next, I built a little resistive voltage divider to supply the OEM sub amp with a lower voltage for the trigger input. Wow...what a difference!! This radio blows the OEM rig away, awesome graphic EQ built-in, total control of the sub-amp, something I never had before. Pandora & I-Heart radio built-in, aux input, USB input, and hands free mobile phone operation. This was a killer upgrade from my 2002 OEM stuff.

Repairing an old Alinco DR-610 Dual Bander...

I've got an old Alinco DR-610 that had developed a bunch of odd problems. This radio has a special meaning to me, it came from my long time friend Jay KQ4MS, who has now passed on. Jay and I had many good times via radio for over 20 years with field days, repeater work, DXing, hamfests, mountain topping, contesting, tower work, and more...but that's a story for another time.  When the radio started misbehaving, I decided I would do whatever it took to keep it running.

I first noticed it being difficult when I would press the VHF or UHF volume controls to switch between bands. Lately, it would blast the volume wide open or loose control of the squelch settings. This past week, it would totally freak out when I would touch the mic connector. It was finally time to crack it open.

I pulled the rig from my truck, and removed the face/head unit. It's made to be separated so it can be used with an optional relocation kit...radio under the seat or elsewhere in the vehicle, with the head somewhere accessible. As soon as I opened up the head unit, the volume / squelch / band change board literally fell out. That sub-board plugs into a TINY 8-pin molex style connector, and it had sheared the pads right off of the PC board. There was nothing to re-install the connector to, so I had to improvise a bit.

This stuff is tiny, and kinda rough on my eyes. You can see this in the photos, when you compare my fingertip side to the parts. I used a set of 3.0 reader glasses & a jeweler's head loupe (called an "opti-visor"). I salvaged a bit of small, flexible wire from a ribbon cable. The OEM mount for the vol/sq assembly was held in place with a screw that also holds the rear cover in place. I the screw had gotten loose, allowing the sub-board to wiggle around a bit, eventually destroying the pc board attachment points for the socket and breaking the traces. I used a bit of epoxy to mount the assembly back onto the main board to make it somewhat more rigid, located suitable attachment points on both the vol/sq board and the main board, and hard wired the boards together. It's not pretty, but it works and is very solid.

Once completed, I bundled the new wiring together, re-assembled and re-installed the head to the main radio unit, reset the processor, and began reprogramming the radio. I was relieved to have this rig back in operation, and ready to get back on the air.

From what I see online, most folks toss rigs of this age in the trash, as they're no longer supported by the factory and shop rates make it cost prohibitive for repairs. I get a kick out of reviving old rigs like this, and keeps ham radio a cheap hobby in my shack :-)

Servicing a B&W Protax #376 Antenna Switch

I have a B&W Protax Series rotary coaxial antenna switch, model #376. It's been in use many, many years, and has been great. I've constantly abused it by switching it while under power, working into high mismatches, etc. I really like these switches, as they ground the unused antennas that are not in use.

Recently, I fired the amp up on 40m CW, not knowing that one side of the 40m dipole had fallen and was entangled in the tower. I loaded up on the dummy load, flipped the primary dummy load switch to "Antenna", and let'r rip. With my headphones on, I didn't hear the switch box arcing. I noticed my reflected power meter go crazy, pulled the cans off my ears, tapped the key, and heard that dreaded hollow sounding arc...

Since then, I noticed I had to wiggle the knob on the B&W to restore receive on the 40m antenna. I knew I had damaged the switch, and began to search a little for info about servicing the unit. Everything I found contained comments that it was in a sealed housing and could not be opened. Oh well...

I decided to tackle the project, anyway. I discovered the rear of the housing had a lip that looked something like that of a soup can. I removed the knob, center switch shaft lock nut and star washer from below the knob, the 3 screws that secured the face plate to the enclosure, and the mounting bracket.

Using a simple top cutting can opener from the kitchen, I removed the "lid" from the rear of the housing. It was one of those that removes the lid from a soup can in a way that it can be replaced and leaves no sharp edges. I was in!! I cleaned the switch with a brass brush, & sprayed it with a good dose of contact cleaner & lubricant. I wiped up the excess, blew the housing out with compressed air, and wiped it down with a rag.

I cleaned around the edge of the "lid" I removed and the edge of the switch box housing. The lid reinstalled easily, and was held in place with a small C-clamp. I used conventional rosin-core electronics solder, and re-attached the lid at several points around it's perimeter.

I reinstalled the switch into my system under my operating position, and all is like new again. I have a number of switches attached to the underside of my operating position. I have become familiar with their location, and it makes it easy for me to select from many of the antennas at my QTH. They're in easy reach, and don't clutter the topside of my operating position. This repair was an easy task, and it saved my old friend from the scrap box!

Dave WB4IUY

Update, ....from 73 Magazine, Nov 11 1965:

AM Spotting Tool Now Online!

Those of you who operate AM, there's a new spotting tool specifically for AM operations online. It's really nice, as it only shows AM sigs and info and you don't have to reconfigure your normal cluster spotting to use it. It doesn't clutter up the normal cluster with non-DX Am spots and such, and works great! Go to the following link for all the "skinny" on this cool new tool for AM operators!

http://am.w6rk.com/

AM Mode Event Oct31-Nov1 !!

If you're an AM operator (or interested in operating AM), you'll find this upcoming event to be pretty cool... It's sponsored by the Potomac AM Group and runs from 0000 UTC on October 31, 2015 to 0000 UTC on November 1, 2015 . 


Purpose: Use full-carrier Amplitude Modulation transmissions on amateur radio bands to make enjoyable AM QSOs, renew old acquaintances, meet new friends, and encourage newcomers to try AM.

1.1 Operating Period: 0000 UTC on October 31, 2015 to 0000 UTC on November 1, 2015.

2.1 Transmission Mode: All transmissions must be full-carrier amplitude modulation. A participant may contact other stations that use AM, SSB, or DSB.

3.1 Bands & Frequencies: 160 through 2 meters. Participants may contact the same station more than once per band.

The commonly used AM calling frequencies listed below (+/-) may be good starting points for AM Tailgate QSOs. Calling frequencies may vary by geographic location.

160 Meters	1.880-1.885 MHz
75 Meters	3.705, 3.870-3.885 MHz
40 Meters	7.285-7.295 MHz
20 Meters	14.330 MHz
15 Meters	21.420 MHz
10 Meters	29.000-29.200 MHz
6 Meters	50.420 MHz
2 Meters	144.270 MHz

Please note that full-carrier AM is not confined by U.S. regulations to any particular voice frequency(s), and AM QSOs regularly take place outside established calling frequencies & windows.

4.1 Calling CQ: “CQ AM Tailgate” and "CQ Tailgate" are suggested ways of calling CQ for this event.

4.2 QSOs Generally: It is suggested that while in QSO, participants listen for, and include, breaking stations as conditions allow.

5.1 QSY-in-30: After 30 minutes in any generally observed AM window it is suggested that AM Tailgate participants (1) QSY no fewer than 5 KHz, or (2) QRX on that frequency for at least 10 minutes. Participants who relinquish a frequency may answer AM Tailgate CQ calls by other stations on that frequency.

6.1 Logging: Logs are extremely valuable in determining participation levels and the level of interest in continuing the event. Therefore, operators are asked to submit their logs showing, at a minimum, the following information for each station contacted: Date, Time, Frequency or Band, Call Sign, Mode used by station contacted; Name of operator; and QTH. Hand-written logs or logs generated by software will be accepted. Hard copy log & summary forms are available by clicking on the links above.

6.2 Spotting: Spotting of AM Tailgate participants is encouraged using the AM Spots page at: http://www.qsl.net/potomacam/amspots.htm .

6.3 Log Submissions: Please submit electronic logs via e-mail. To submit hand-written documents by e-mail, please convert to PDF. Log & summary sheet must be received no later than 11:59 p.m. EST on November 10, 2015, sent by e-mail to:

or by surface or air mail to:

Please include a photo(s) of you in your station.

7.1 Results: AM Tailgate results shall be tallied no later than December 1, 2015. Recognition may be given on the web for participation in this event.

8.1 Contact: Contact the 2015 coordinator at:

8.2 AM Tailgate rules & forms will be final as of October 1, 2015 unless otherwise indicated. Please submit comments & suggestions.

For more info, go to the official event webpage at:

http://www.qsl.net/potomacam/amtailgate.htm